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Boat Prep

Boat Preparation

Before seeking maximum performance a sailor must have the right equipment properly prepared. Boat preparation may be split into the following sections:

Hull – finish, weight, strength and stiffness.
Spars – selection, rigging and running rigging.
Sails – selection, shape and settings.
Foils – shape, stiffness and finish.
Fittings – selection and maintenance.
Layout – simple and efficient.
Measurement – complete boat.
Hull

Hulls must be fair with a good finish. The many hours spent painstakingly filling and fairing around bailers, centreboard case etc will be well worth it when looking for that little extra. Class boats that are produced as one designs should come out similar in stiffness in hull. However even within the tolerances there may be differences which should be checked before purchase. The stiffer the hull the better.

Hulls will normally be produced with the weight out of the ends which may offer a variance of stiffness in those areas.

Hull weight is vital and should be at the minimum allowable. If possible the weight should be centred around the keel/centreboard area and as low as possible.

Spars

Spars will offer a wide range of stiffness and bend characteristics. Class yachts will usually follow a manufacturers trend however there are still likely to be variations.

Discussions with the various sail maker before choosing a spar may assist as some sail makers may cut sails for certain spars. Standard rigging must always be in good condition. One small failure ends up being very expensive. Tell tale signs are stains around the swages or a broken strand. An external broken strand usually indicates an internal breakdown.

Running rigging, sheets, braces, halyards and other controls require the same attention. A broken rope may shock load the standing rigging enough for damage.

The use of wire has been reduced particularly in larger boats with the introduction of high load light weight rope such as spectra and other equivalents. These ropes are appearing in halyards and spinnaker gear where weight saved is an advantage.

Care must be taken with the casings of these ropes to avoid a break which renders the complete rope unusable. Wear will appear in stress areas such as jammers, cleats or sheaves. When identified it is advisable to cut 300mm off the end exposing a new part of the casing to the stress area.

Check with a reputable rigger for advice on all rigging.

Sails

With a wide selection of sail makers it becomes difficult to find a reason to go to one or the other. Once again class yachts may follow a trend as a particular sail maker may be working with sailors to develop good sails.

Today most sail makers are working off computer designs where basic principles of sail design are used.

Staying with one sail maker often pays dividends as a little more personal attention may come your way.

The sail maker will require some information before cutting sails which sailors should be aware of.

Conditions that sails will be used in.
The type of spar being used.
Crew weight.
Mast bend.
Most sail makers will have standard cuts to suit the above points.

Before taking delivery of sails have the class measurer approve them to avoid the embarrassment of having a new sail refused because the leech is 3mm too long or the numbers are not the correct size.

Foils

The cross sectional shape of foils is usually governed by the class rules. Those rules will most likely not allow a true aerofoil shape therefore the cross section shaping is taken as close as possible to the correct shape.oh ok u got an assignment Care must be taken in the shaping of foils as unequal shaping will cause vibrations, creating drag. Templates should be used to even up each side.

Fittings

There is a wide range of high class fittings available to suit all sizes of yachts.

When fitting out a yacht owners will often purchase fittings up to a price they can afford. The end result is that fittings may be purchased that do not carry the loads required and fail when put to the test in a breeze.

The fastening of fittings is often also seen as a way to save a little money. Rather than through bolt, self tapping screws will often be used only to eventually pull out. There is no more secure fastening system than to through bolt fittings. It also keeps water out eliminating the possibility of rot in wooden boats.

Layouts

Layouts are a matter of personal preference. They should be simple, efficient and necessary.

When preparing a layout where the rules allow variety it is wise to look at other boats to get some idea of what is required.

Before drilling holes to try fittings, run dummy cordage to find the correct angles and positions.

Measurement

To save the heartache of failing measurement at a regatta sailors should adopt a clear attitude about the legality of a boat.

The hull is the most difficult item of all to correct and therefore should be measured and put into legal measurement trim even before club racing.

Weight would be the most common problem that appears. New boats will often be sailed and raced in club racing in an underweight condition. Not only does a sailor “kid” them self by operating in this way but is also racing illegally.

The same goes for other parts of the yacht. Knowing that your boat measures can only enhance your mental preparation at a major event. There is nothing worse than arguing over minor points of measurement when preparing for competition.

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Boatspeed

Boatspeed

Best speed is achieved by ones ability to find the right combination of the following variables

Variables Out of Your Control
Variables You Control
Wind
Waves
Opponents action
Course steered
Sail trim
Boat balance (including rudder/centreboard
The key to boat speed is feel. Feel is achieved through a combination of sail trim, boat balance and course steered which results in the correct amount of weather helm feel for any given wind and wave condition.

To Increase Weather Helm Feel By(or decrease by using opposite of below)

Move body weight forward.
Move body weight to leeward.
Sheet boom further to windward.
Sheet tighter on mainsail leach.
Ease off outhaul for fuller mainsail .
Ease off cunningham so draft moves aft.
Straighten mast by reducing pre-bend for fuller mainsail.
Move centreboard forward.
Rake rudder more aft.
Steer a course further away from wind than the sails are trimmed for or the boat is balanced for.
The key to top speed is how you use your natural feel to mix these ingredients in the right combination. Once out on the race course this mix of course steered, sail trim and boat balance is the difference between being fast or slow.

Natural feel can really only be learnt by time spent sailing (especially in small dinghies starting at an early age). A sailor with feel will automatically make adjustments without even knowing the reasons. The late starter may have to think why a certain adjustment is necessary.

For the best results you need to combine natural feel with a good understanding of what is fast and the reasons some combinations work better than others. What is obvious is that variables – course steered, sail trim and boat balance are all completely dependent upon each other for best speed.

Light wind Boat speed 0-5 knots

Upwind: The key points are to increase weather helm and create efficient wind flow over sails. Body and helm movements must be super smooth so as not to disturb wind and water flow. It is critical to remain calm, both mentally and physically (this is not easy as you often have to remain in the same position for long periods).

Use mast pre-bend and outhaul to flatten mainsail.
Tighter rig tension will pre-bend the mast (for dinghies) or ease rig tension to power up head sail for racing keelboats.
Have both jib and main luffs eased to create a few horizontal wrinkles, allowing the draft to move aft for better light air sail shapes.
Sheet both main and jib with twist to leeward on leaches to help wind flow.
Be careful not to over sheet the boom. Use the boom well off the centre line in very light breezes and only when sure of your boat speed, attempt to sheet further inboard. Boom down for further drive.
Keep jib slot open and flowing, remember boom is further to leeward than usual.
Rake rudder aft and centreboard maximum forward to increase weather helm feel.
Position crew weight to leeward and forward to create more weather helm and reduce wetted hull surface. Crew should be careful not to disturb wind flow in the slot between the jib and mainsail.
Try to steer by watching wrinkles along the jib luff (on monotypes, the main) allowing them to be slightly back winding for best flow. Try to create correct weather helm feel by careful use of body movement. Don’t allow the helm to go dead by flattening out leeward helm. Try to balance the boat for light airs using rudder and centreboard positioning, rather than having to use too much leeward heel to achieve the desired weather helm feel.

Reaching: The same principles apply as for upwind, i.e. best wind flow by having luff wrinkles slightly backing, combined with good helm feel. For double handed boats the key is your use of the spinnaker and pole height combined with course steered.

You need to position the pole higher when tight reaching as this opens up the spinnaker luff allowing you to point up higher into the wind. If your course is low then your pole height must also be low in order to keep the spinnaker filling. The helmsman must then decide just how low he can afford to steer and still fill the spinnaker. Good communication with the trimmer. The helmsman must be able to subconsciously feel the weight of the spinnaker sheet. The weight decreases to the point of the spinnaker collapsing, then the helmsman must steer a slightly higher course and maintain the balance between good speed and best course to mark. Using the variations in wind speed is critical to fast reaching legs i.e. pointing down in the puffs and up in the lulls.

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Northern Region -PSC Charity regatta results

PSC Charity Regatta
Pretoria Sailing Club
Results are final as of 10:57 on February 3, 2012
Overall
Sailed:4, Discards:1, To count:3, Entries:11, Scoring system:ISAF Appendix A Rank Class SailNo Helm Club R1 R2 R3 R4 Total Nett
1st Dabchick 33 Oliver Cribb VLC (2.0) 2.0 1.0 1.0 6.0 4.0
2nd Dabchick 3446 Alexander Ham PSC 1.0 1.0 (2.0) 2.0 6.0 4.0
3rd Dabchick 3334 Jonathan Ham PSC 3.0 4.0 (6.0) 3.0 16.0 10.0
4th Dabchick 3318 Megan Eccleston VLC (5.0) 3.0 3.0 5.0 16.0 11.0
5th Dabchick 3333 Michael Caroline BYC 4.0 (5.0) 4.0 4.0 17.0 12.0
6th Dabchick 3435 Ingrid Wertheim-Aymes PSC (6.0) 6.0 5.0 6.0 23.0 17.0
7th Dabchick 3417 Emma Clark VLC 7.0 7.0 7.0 (8.0) 29.0 21.0
8th Dabchick 3449 Michelle Hawksworth 8.0 8.0 8.0 (9.0) 33.0 24.0
9th Dabchick 3264 Colin Norton TCC (12.0 DNC) 9.0 10.0 11.0 42.0 30.0
10th Dabchick 3379 Danielle Tiley Aeolians (12.0 DNC) 12.0 DNC 12.0 DNC 7.0 43.0 31.0
11th Dabchick 3356 Eric Norton TCC (12.0 DNC) 12.0 DNC 9.0 10.0 43.0 31.0

Scoring codes used
Code Description Points
DNC Did not come to the starting area 12

Sailwave Scoring Software 1.94 Build 29

http://www.sailwave.com/

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I can relate to this

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Trimming – Teresa Schultz

If you’re keen to race your sailing dinghy, but find it difficult to get out of that part of the fleet that makes the top half possible, there may be a few reasons.

For novice skippers it is mostly sail trimming that keeps them bringing up the rear. Concentrate on fore and aft and lateral trim, then pay some attention to your sail trim.

This discussion is not about the theory that makes a dinghy move through the water as a consequence of air movement across the sails; rather, it is a practical guide to effective sail trim on a small sailing dinghy. Please bear in mind that this is a general discussion, and will therefore not be equally suitable for all sailing dinghies.

Dinghy sail trimming starts on land, when you are rigging your dinghy.

Hoist your mainsail and jib.

When tensioning the sails, remember that the harder the wind is blowing, the harder you can apply tension to the sails. In light winds, apply very little pressure, to make your sails as full as possible. Light tension will also allow the sails to react to puffs quicker and easier.

Many, but not all mainsails have a luff lock position, some have more than one, to allow for different wind conditions, but most have no locking position. If your dinghy has a luff lock, and it is required to use it, do so. If not, read on.

The luff on a dinghy is elastic, and depending on how much tension is applied, will extend by as much as six inches, sometimes more. For light winds apply tension to the halyard, sufficient to increase the luff length by approximately two inches. A light fold should be seen in the sail, running parallel to the mast. Now go to the clew of the main, at the end of the boom. Apply pressure to remove the vertical luff fold. When the vertical fold has disappeared, watch the sail along the boom. Apply tension until you see a fold starting in the sail just above the boom. Now slowly release the clew to a point midway between the two extremes.

As the wind force accelerates, tighten your luff, then the foot of the sail, always maintaining the midway point. Apply pressure to remove the vertical fold. Stop, and mark the position. Now apply more pressure until a horizontal fold starts forming. Stop, and make a mark. The position you want is between the two marks. Experience with your dinghy will help you determine optimum settings.

Out on the water a common mistake made by novices is over-sheeting. This is pulling the sails in too tight. Nothing will slow a sailing dinghy down more than over-sheeting.

With your dinghy rigged, stand behind the dinghy and sheet in until the outside tip of the boom is above the outside corner of the transom. Use a permanent marker to mark the sheet at a point that you will be able to monitor easily. It is suggested that you use the boom block as a reference, as a deck block will divert your attention from what is happening around you. This will be your light weather setting. Now sheet in a bit more, until the tip of the boom is half way between the transom and the centerline. Mark this point with a permanent marker, and use it as a reference for maximum sheeting in strong winds.

Adjust your kicking strap, or boom vang. In light wind conditions the kicking strap must have very little tension, just sufficient to keep the boom from lifting up. In heavier conditions, you can apply tension that will drop the level of the boom below its actual rest position.

Jib luff tension is achieved by applying halyard tension until just before a vertical luff fold starts appearing.

Out on the water, launch your dinghy and get clear of land. Make sure your weight is correctly positioned, and steer a course to windward. Sheet in your mainsail, ensuring that it is between the marks you made earlier. Now adjust your course, so that the leech of the mainsail is just fluttering. Sheet the jib in to stop it flapping. Have a look at the leech of your mainsail. If it is opening excessively along the top third, you need to tighten your kicking strap. With time and practice you will be able to feel the difference this makes.

Now sheet the jib in some more, until it starts back-winding the main. You will see this happen when the beautiful aerofoil shape of the main starts making a bubble just behind the mast. Let the jib out until the bubble goes away.

These are the basics, and will make a difference to your position. By fine-tuning these settings you will notice if your ability to catch up is improving or not. Fine-tuning and practice will take you closer to the front of the fleet.

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This young lady rattled a few cages at Nationals

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Check your mate Random Photos

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Enough of the Quotes

“The ocean has always been a salve to my soul…the best thing for a cut or abrasion was to go swimming in salt water. Later down the road of life, I made the discovery that salt water was also good for the mental abrasions one inevitably acquires on land.”
- Jimmy Buffett

Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Give him a fishing lesson and he’ll sit in a boat drinking beer every weekend.
- Alex Blackwell

A sailor’s joys are as simple as a child’s.
- Bernard Moitessier

A sailor is an artist whose medium is the wind.
- Webb Chiles

“Only the guy who isn’t rowing has time to rock the boat.”
- Jean-Paul Sartre

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Most important requirement in a tool kit

“Duct tape is like the force: It has a dark side and a light side, and it holds the universe together.”

“One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop.”

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