Some more golden rules

When it comes to which part of the race course to sail to there are some golden rules. Follow the below rules of thumb to maximise your chances of racing success.

On a short beat keep to the right – hand side of the course.
Find out which way the current or tide is flowing.
Head for deep water and the outside of bends when the tide is with you (the opposite when the tide is against you).
If everything is equal, tack up a 60 – degree cone.
Stay well inside the lay lines.
Tack on headers.
Sail towards the centres of wind bends.
On a one – sided beat, sail the long leg first.
When sailing cross – tide, point into the tide and use a transit to sail a straight course “over the land”.
Gybe on wind shifts.
Choose the gybe that takes you most directly to the leeward mark.
Keep strong tides under your lee bow.
Go for the downwind end of the finish line.

owen

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Some racing Golden rules

Avoid being blanketed.
Avoid the hopeless position.
Avoid being lee – bowed.
Start near the forward (upwind) end of the start line.
Ignore the position of the windward mark when deciding where to start (provided the first leg is a beat).
Keep in the front rank before the start.
Take a transit so you know when you are on the line.
Keep between your opponent and the next mark.
Off wind, keep your wind clear and try to sail straight for the next mark.

Owen

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Northern region Interschools – 17th & 18th March

Lets encourage all your schoolmates to take part in this regatta. Take the initiative and get a team together.Please click below for all the detail:-

2012 Interschools Regatta NOR

Inter School Entry Form.doc High _

Inter School Entry Form.doc Prima_

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Bad start ? – Tips on how to recover

A poor start means a poor race. If you start in 15th, the best possible outcome that may reasonably happen is you ending up 5th in that race – unless there is a large collision/capsize on the reach/run by one of the leaders. Be on the line at go, and have clean air!

– Getting into a luffing match.

A luffing match can often happen near marks. You’ve underestimated the lay line, and you’re pinching as much as you can to try and make that mark, and calling to the boat weather abeam: “room to round!” you head them up into a luff, and you two are luffing at the mark, trying to round as all the other boats pass by you. If you think you’re coming up short, or know you are, watch boats to your weather quarter, wait for an opportunity and tack up, and then back on the line.

– Don’t duel.

As mentioned earlier, dueling is a great way to lose position in a race. You lose sight of other boats, and only burden yourself in the long run. This doesn’t mean don’t be afraid of interaction with the fleet, but if you’re in a controlled position, get out! If somebody’s blanketing you, tack away! And avoid collisions!

– Control, don’t be controlled.

Some basic controlling tactics are: Leebowing, when you’re on somebody’s lee bow in a reach, you can control where they go, but they can make you overstand a mark by holding you to that tack, unless you pull away in a puff. It’s a trade off. Blanketing, stealing someone’s air by being directly weather of them, works most effectively on upwind and downwind. Backwinding, be ahead and slightly to leeward of them, on an upwind the wind coming off the lee of your sails will disturb their wind.

– When behind, don’t risk a likely disastrous loss for an unlikely spectacular gain.

Don’t be that person who tacked away from the fleet, searching for the header that never came. When behind in a race, especially series races, hold your position in the fleet, find clean air and try for a break. Exercise control tactics and be in the hump. Don’t try for all or nothing, it’s usually not worth it. The wise sailor accepts he had a bad start, or made a mistake, and immediately fixes/begins to fix it. He does not begin digging further into the hole he has made expecting somebody to come along and pull him out by the collar.

Advice
Don’t be reckless.
Sail as fast as possible, all the time.
Sail your own race, don’t worry what other boats are doing.

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Dont be shy – look and ask

Look and Talk You must have heard it before, but it is true, go and look at the top boats. Start by copying their setup, after all it must be fast.
Then talk to the top sailors, most are more than happy to chat, and it will probably only cost you a coke. Ask them why they have the boat the way it is? and how they handle the boat in different conditions?, you may be surprised: and find that much is a compromise and not an out and out setting or method! But dont take my word for it, ask.
A fleet will only get faster if ideas are shared and the top guys feel pressure and the need to go faster, this must surely help everybody.

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Speed freaks

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Radical SailRocket yacht targets world speed record – Popular Mechanics

In pursuit of the outright world speed sailing record. No one said it would be easy…

If you’re intent on breaking the outright world speed sailing record, you’ll need a radical design – perhaps something on the lines of the Vestas SailRocket 2. But even then, as pilot and project leader Paul Larsen and his team soon discovered, breaking through the elusive 60-knot (111 km/h) barrier is far from plain sailing.

On the world stage, Namibia’s small coastal town of Walvis Bay borders on the insignificant – unless you’re a sailing fanatic who’s addicted to speed, that is. Thanks to the predominant south-easterly winds that blow off the Namibian coastline between the months of September and December each summer, it’s the ideal spot for sailors from around the globe looking for a stab at becoming the fastest man (or woman) under sail.

It comes as no surprise to learn that Larsen and his team are intimately acquainted with this part of the world. They last visited Walvis Bay in 2008 with their first design, the Vestas SailRocket (VSR) 1, which still holds the B class (up to 21,84 m² of sail) world speed sailing record of 87,72 km/h. Unfortunately, although they managed to hit peak speeds of 96 km/h on a number of occasions, the outright record remained frustratingly out of reach. (On their last run, just as things were looking promising, the boat became airborne, then flipped.) Dejected, everyone headed back to the drawing board, and so was born the VSR 2.

Read more about Vestas SailRocket 2 in the February 2012 issue of Popular Mechanics – on sale on 23 January.

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Pirate T Shirts – http://teenormous.com/lists/best-and-funniest-pirate-t-shirts-27

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Boat Prep

Boat Preparation

Before seeking maximum performance a sailor must have the right equipment properly prepared. Boat preparation may be split into the following sections:

Hull – finish, weight, strength and stiffness.
Spars – selection, rigging and running rigging.
Sails – selection, shape and settings.
Foils – shape, stiffness and finish.
Fittings – selection and maintenance.
Layout – simple and efficient.
Measurement – complete boat.
Hull

Hulls must be fair with a good finish. The many hours spent painstakingly filling and fairing around bailers, centreboard case etc will be well worth it when looking for that little extra. Class boats that are produced as one designs should come out similar in stiffness in hull. However even within the tolerances there may be differences which should be checked before purchase. The stiffer the hull the better.

Hulls will normally be produced with the weight out of the ends which may offer a variance of stiffness in those areas.

Hull weight is vital and should be at the minimum allowable. If possible the weight should be centred around the keel/centreboard area and as low as possible.

Spars

Spars will offer a wide range of stiffness and bend characteristics. Class yachts will usually follow a manufacturers trend however there are still likely to be variations.

Discussions with the various sail maker before choosing a spar may assist as some sail makers may cut sails for certain spars. Standard rigging must always be in good condition. One small failure ends up being very expensive. Tell tale signs are stains around the swages or a broken strand. An external broken strand usually indicates an internal breakdown.

Running rigging, sheets, braces, halyards and other controls require the same attention. A broken rope may shock load the standing rigging enough for damage.

The use of wire has been reduced particularly in larger boats with the introduction of high load light weight rope such as spectra and other equivalents. These ropes are appearing in halyards and spinnaker gear where weight saved is an advantage.

Care must be taken with the casings of these ropes to avoid a break which renders the complete rope unusable. Wear will appear in stress areas such as jammers, cleats or sheaves. When identified it is advisable to cut 300mm off the end exposing a new part of the casing to the stress area.

Check with a reputable rigger for advice on all rigging.

Sails

With a wide selection of sail makers it becomes difficult to find a reason to go to one or the other. Once again class yachts may follow a trend as a particular sail maker may be working with sailors to develop good sails.

Today most sail makers are working off computer designs where basic principles of sail design are used.

Staying with one sail maker often pays dividends as a little more personal attention may come your way.

The sail maker will require some information before cutting sails which sailors should be aware of.

Conditions that sails will be used in.
The type of spar being used.
Crew weight.
Mast bend.
Most sail makers will have standard cuts to suit the above points.

Before taking delivery of sails have the class measurer approve them to avoid the embarrassment of having a new sail refused because the leech is 3mm too long or the numbers are not the correct size.

Foils

The cross sectional shape of foils is usually governed by the class rules. Those rules will most likely not allow a true aerofoil shape therefore the cross section shaping is taken as close as possible to the correct shape.oh ok u got an assignment Care must be taken in the shaping of foils as unequal shaping will cause vibrations, creating drag. Templates should be used to even up each side.

Fittings

There is a wide range of high class fittings available to suit all sizes of yachts.

When fitting out a yacht owners will often purchase fittings up to a price they can afford. The end result is that fittings may be purchased that do not carry the loads required and fail when put to the test in a breeze.

The fastening of fittings is often also seen as a way to save a little money. Rather than through bolt, self tapping screws will often be used only to eventually pull out. There is no more secure fastening system than to through bolt fittings. It also keeps water out eliminating the possibility of rot in wooden boats.

Layouts

Layouts are a matter of personal preference. They should be simple, efficient and necessary.

When preparing a layout where the rules allow variety it is wise to look at other boats to get some idea of what is required.

Before drilling holes to try fittings, run dummy cordage to find the correct angles and positions.

Measurement

To save the heartache of failing measurement at a regatta sailors should adopt a clear attitude about the legality of a boat.

The hull is the most difficult item of all to correct and therefore should be measured and put into legal measurement trim even before club racing.

Weight would be the most common problem that appears. New boats will often be sailed and raced in club racing in an underweight condition. Not only does a sailor “kid” them self by operating in this way but is also racing illegally.

The same goes for other parts of the yacht. Knowing that your boat measures can only enhance your mental preparation at a major event. There is nothing worse than arguing over minor points of measurement when preparing for competition.

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Boatspeed

Boatspeed

Best speed is achieved by ones ability to find the right combination of the following variables

Variables Out of Your Control
Variables You Control
Wind
Waves
Opponents action
Course steered
Sail trim
Boat balance (including rudder/centreboard
The key to boat speed is feel. Feel is achieved through a combination of sail trim, boat balance and course steered which results in the correct amount of weather helm feel for any given wind and wave condition.

To Increase Weather Helm Feel By(or decrease by using opposite of below)

Move body weight forward.
Move body weight to leeward.
Sheet boom further to windward.
Sheet tighter on mainsail leach.
Ease off outhaul for fuller mainsail .
Ease off cunningham so draft moves aft.
Straighten mast by reducing pre-bend for fuller mainsail.
Move centreboard forward.
Rake rudder more aft.
Steer a course further away from wind than the sails are trimmed for or the boat is balanced for.
The key to top speed is how you use your natural feel to mix these ingredients in the right combination. Once out on the race course this mix of course steered, sail trim and boat balance is the difference between being fast or slow.

Natural feel can really only be learnt by time spent sailing (especially in small dinghies starting at an early age). A sailor with feel will automatically make adjustments without even knowing the reasons. The late starter may have to think why a certain adjustment is necessary.

For the best results you need to combine natural feel with a good understanding of what is fast and the reasons some combinations work better than others. What is obvious is that variables – course steered, sail trim and boat balance are all completely dependent upon each other for best speed.

Light wind Boat speed 0-5 knots

Upwind: The key points are to increase weather helm and create efficient wind flow over sails. Body and helm movements must be super smooth so as not to disturb wind and water flow. It is critical to remain calm, both mentally and physically (this is not easy as you often have to remain in the same position for long periods).

Use mast pre-bend and outhaul to flatten mainsail.
Tighter rig tension will pre-bend the mast (for dinghies) or ease rig tension to power up head sail for racing keelboats.
Have both jib and main luffs eased to create a few horizontal wrinkles, allowing the draft to move aft for better light air sail shapes.
Sheet both main and jib with twist to leeward on leaches to help wind flow.
Be careful not to over sheet the boom. Use the boom well off the centre line in very light breezes and only when sure of your boat speed, attempt to sheet further inboard. Boom down for further drive.
Keep jib slot open and flowing, remember boom is further to leeward than usual.
Rake rudder aft and centreboard maximum forward to increase weather helm feel.
Position crew weight to leeward and forward to create more weather helm and reduce wetted hull surface. Crew should be careful not to disturb wind flow in the slot between the jib and mainsail.
Try to steer by watching wrinkles along the jib luff (on monotypes, the main) allowing them to be slightly back winding for best flow. Try to create correct weather helm feel by careful use of body movement. Don’t allow the helm to go dead by flattening out leeward helm. Try to balance the boat for light airs using rudder and centreboard positioning, rather than having to use too much leeward heel to achieve the desired weather helm feel.

Reaching: The same principles apply as for upwind, i.e. best wind flow by having luff wrinkles slightly backing, combined with good helm feel. For double handed boats the key is your use of the spinnaker and pole height combined with course steered.

You need to position the pole higher when tight reaching as this opens up the spinnaker luff allowing you to point up higher into the wind. If your course is low then your pole height must also be low in order to keep the spinnaker filling. The helmsman must then decide just how low he can afford to steer and still fill the spinnaker. Good communication with the trimmer. The helmsman must be able to subconsciously feel the weight of the spinnaker sheet. The weight decreases to the point of the spinnaker collapsing, then the helmsman must steer a slightly higher course and maintain the balance between good speed and best course to mark. Using the variations in wind speed is critical to fast reaching legs i.e. pointing down in the puffs and up in the lulls.

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