Sunscreen – a non negotiable in today’s world

I recently lost a very close friend to a form of skin cancer. He was a land surveyor and spent a lot of time in the sun.Ian and I matriculated together in 1974.He was anti Doctor,hard headed and I am afraid didn’t look after himself very well .We all thought him to be very bullet proof.
What is the best sunscreen for sailing? Scuttlebutt asked some of the people who are regularly on the water. America’s Cup winner Russell Coutts uses whatever his wife gives him, and Olympic Gold Medalist Anna Tunnicliffe finds success with most everything that is 50+ SPF and waterproof. Here is some of the other feedback we received:

* Greg Fisher, J/22 World Champion: “I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 55 sun block as it is less sticky and doesn’t burn the eyes as readily as some of the other stuff. It’s not totally waterproof but I’ve been told that you need to reapply every few hours anyway for any sunscreen to remain effective. I’ve tried some other sunscreens that claim to have “anti-wrinkle” properties. They don’t seem to have quite the screen qualities as the Neutrogena nor do they seem to actually turn back the clock on what the sun has already accomplished!”

* Paige Railey, 2006 Rolex Yachtswoman of the Year: “I use a sunscreen called Roc for babies. The reason I prefer it is because it’s a mineral cream. I always wear rashguards so the only thing exposed to the sun is my face. The sunscreen is so thick that it makes my skin white. It looks like I wear zinc on my face. When it starts to wear off then the color will start to fade. So I reapply. This is the reason why I look like a ghost in all of my pictures. I use the same for my lips. I need to protect them because when I was younger I never cared for them so now I have had two spots removed. Let’s say I take the sun very seriously!”

* Zach Railey, 2008 Olympic Finn Silver Medalist: “I use sunscreen called Ocean Potion. SPF 30. It is very waterproof and also sweat proof for hot weather. I think it was originally designed for surfers.”

In my younger days I hated sunscreen,but today use regularly. Times have changed,I urge you to make it part of your kit – no excuses.

owen

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Dinghy Sailing Techniques

Sailing is definitely one of those activities in which the more effort you put in the more you get out of it — some newcomers to the sport achieve very impressive championship results in their first few seasons. If you’re hooked on the competitive aspect of dinghy racing, you’ll want to follow a structured path to improve your skills in as shorter time frame as possible. There’s also a tremendous feelgood factor in learning a new skill and doing it well — and learning to race a dinghy is one in which it’s easy to measure your progress. But be warned: it can be very addictive!

Essential Sailing skills

Sailing lessons are essential when starting out
There are a few key sailing skills you’ll initially need to attain before you start racing. You’ll need to be able to tack, gybe and sail a triangular course with reasonable efficiency in favourable weather. In addition, you’ll need to be able to launch and recover from the shore and know what to do to in the event of a capsize. A basic understanding of the fundamentals of the Racing Rules of Sailing, as well as the start procedures and sailing instructions for racing at your club, are obviously also important, as is knowledge of weather forecasting for watersports. If you’re sailing on the sea or an estuary, you’ll also need a basic understanding of the local tides. You can probably get to this level with just three weekends of tuition, the first two for Levels 1 and 2 of the RYA National Sailing Scheme, and the third for the RYA Start Racing course. This will be enough to launch your hobby, and you’ll be able to take part in club racing, although you can’t expect to reach the front of the fleet just yet. You may even find that you only complete two laps of the course in the time that the leaders complete three, but don’t be disheartened — remember at this stage you’re on a fast learning curve and will soon be catching up with the fleet.

Building on the basics

The following are crucial areas which you’ll want to work on to propel yourself up the learning curve. By paying attention to each of these it won’t be long before you’re catching up with those at the back of the pack. Enlist your fellow competitors to help build your skills by bombarding them with questions — this is a very effective way to learn and most sailors are more than happy to share their knowledge.
Wind awareness

Pay as much attention as possible to the changes in wind strength that can be seen on the water — gusts show as darker patches, while lighter areas indicate a lull. This knowledge helps you to become more in tune with the boat — you’ll have advance warning of when you’ll need to move your weight, or hike harder to keep the boat flat. A change in wind strength is almost always accompanied by a change in direction, so if you’re sailing the windward leg of the course you’ll need to adjust your course to suit the new wind direction and in any case you will need to re-trim the sails. It takes time to develop a high level of wind awareness, so don’t worry about nailing it straight off — just start by making sure that it’s always uppermost in your mind and be content to slowly build your feel and appreciation of what’s going on. In particular, don’t make the all-too-common mistake of assuming the wind’s still coming from exactly the same direction that it was five or 10 minutes ago.
Windward leg tactics and laylines

Windshifts are one of the key determinants of the best time to tack when sailing the windward leg — it pays to tack when you are headed away from the windward mark. Also try to establish whether one side of the course appears to be faster than the other. Watching boats ahead can be helpful in working this out — look for which side of the course the leaders took. An obvious, yet important, point is not to sail too far on the windward leg — judging exactly the right place to tack to make the windward mark is difficult from a distance — so sail a progressively shorter distance on each tack until you reach the mark.
Boatspeed

It’s all very well to point the boat in the right direction, but if your boatspeed is poor, you’ll still trail at the back of the fleet. A common mistake many club racers who are starting out make is to believe that investing in new sails and other kit is the most effective way to improve boatspeed. Granted, these are important elements, but the first investment to make almost always needs to be in your own skills. Sail trim is perhaps the single most important issue. Learn to use the telltales to indicate the air flow over the sails, then learn about twist and draught (fullness) and how the outhaul, cunningham/halyard tension, and vang can be used to depower and power up the rig. Read all the technique features in Yachts and Yachting, plus anything else you can get your hands on! Correct rig tuning is vital to boatspeed and many sailmakers and classes provide ‘standard’ tuning guides. You’ll need to use one of these, possibly with input from other club members, to make sure your boat is properly sorted in this respect.
And more…

On the water, keeping the boat trimmed correctly fore and aft, and properly balanced, makes a huge contribution to boat speed, yet the number of relatively experienced sailors that fail to pay sufficient attention to this is amazing. The golden rule is to keep the boat flat at all times — heeling may create a sensation of speed, but ALL dinghies are slow when leaning over.

The only exception to this is in very light airs. If the wind is almost imperceptible, heeling the boat away from the wind helps the sails to fill — their own weight helps them to take up the correct shape — and at the same time less of the hull is immersed in the water, so drag is reduced. Other aspects of boat handling to start working on at this stage are tacking and mark roundings. With tacking, start by making sure you’re turning the boat through approximately the correct angle for each tack, so that you always exit the tack at an optimum wind angle. Note that it’s very common for newcomers to turn much too far, which is exceedingly slow.

Mark rounding may sound like a small factor, but neat boat handling will always gain ground at a mark, and with some club races involving up to a dozen marks, there’s a lot of scope to gain ground in this area. The key is to approach wide, which enables you to exit the mark close to. This prevents others getting inside you and shortens your windward leg by perhaps half a length, which may just be enough to get an inside overlap at the next mark. At the same time, you can start to build your understanding of the rules and tactics, gradually implementing your additional knowledge as you build your skill level.

If you’re sailing a two-handed dinghy it will also be important to work on communication and division of tasks between the crew — it’s often more effective for the crew to make the bulk of the tactical decisions, which leaves the helm able to focus as fully as possible on trimming the mainsail and steering the boat fast.

Club Racing
The next stage

One of the challenges of learning a new skill is to keep moving up the learning curve — many people get stuck at a particular level from which they don’t progress. Once you’ve consolidated your initial experience — perhaps after a dozen days’ racing — it’s worth doing some more training to give you the next jump ahead. If your class sails with a spinnaker, the RYA Sailing with Spinnakers two-day course will prove very beneficial. There are two versions of this course, one for asymmetric spinnakers, the other for conventional symmetric sails — make sure you book the appropriate one for your boat! Another course that’s worthwhile is Performance Sailing, which will help you improve boat handing and sail trim.

This is also time to pay more attention to starting. It’s also no accident that those who are good at starting tend to get excellent results — if they’re clear of the fleet on the first beat they’ll be sailing in clean air when everyone else is in the disturbed flow off other boats’ sails, so if you’re always playing catch-up you’ll never get to the front. Mark rounding becomes more complex as you move up the fleet and find that there are more occasions on which you reach the mark simultaneously with other boats. However, if you develop a clear understanding of the appropriate rules, and the boat-handling skills to match, a good mark rounding can gain you several places.

A winning mindset

A few people are natural sailors and will always do relatively well with the minimum of preparation and effort. However, most of us need to develop a structured approach to learning right from the outset. Continually developing your skills will avoid the trap of getting stuck at a particular level that many sailors fall into — it’s possible for newcomers to overtake many of these in a relatively short time span. Review each race to identify what you did well and what you could have improved on — it’s hard to over-emphasise how important this process is! Even if you don’t write a formal training plan, have clear and achievable targets of what to improve and how to do so. You will also need to regularly review progress and revise your targets as they are achieved. Writing a journal of lessons you learnt during each day’s sailing will help consolidate those points, as well as helping to identify priorities for improving.

What next?

Another important challenge is to extend the range of wind strengths in which you’re comfortable to sail. This can’t be done in one jump — if you try going out in 25 knots when you’ve previously not sailed in more that 12-15 you’ll simply fall over. But if you become accustomed to planing under full control in 16-18 knots, you can then tackle progressively more and more, remembering to source heavy weather tips from books, this magazine or other sailors.

Allied to this is improving your technique at righting from capsize — in particular to dodge the slow RYA method by climbing over the side of the boat and sliding onto the centreplate. It’s crucial to be quick, otherwise you’ll pull the boat right over until it’s totally inverted (hence the RYA method minimises the risk of this).

To progress your skills at the maximum rate, you’ll need to do a mix of racing and training in which you repeatedly practice manoeuvres, with the aim of improving and perfecting them. For some of this you can set your own goals, but further coaching throughout your sailing career will help you head towards the top of the field, so look out for events run by your class, club or elsewhere. A breadth of knowledge is also important, so look out for opportunities to sail different boats, with different people and in different places. Equally, the other RYA National Sailing Scheme courses, Seamanship Skills and Day Cruising, will add to your pool of knowledge and experience.

Further information:

www.rya.org.uk

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Tactics – SO WHAT DO YOU NEED? HOW CAN YOU PREPARE?

First you need sailing technique and ability, the right equipment, crew, rig tune, sails, boat preparation, rules knowledge, sail trim, knowledge of your competitors and, very important, your commitment. These very important skills/techniques/equipment are part of your pre-race preparation and are practiced and learned before the race starts.

The second and equally important quality you need is found on the racecourse-the street fighting part of the game, the tactical brain and the quick thinking needed to get you ahead of your competitors. This quality makes the difference between a good performance and a winning one.

For example, if two equally talented and skilled sailors with equal equipment and preparation sail in the same race, the one which is able to make better decisions on the fly and interpret situations quickly and accurately as they develop will be the winner. This decision making ability will also develop confidence.

So how can we find this decision-making ability? How can we develop this quality? How can we find a system that we can use as a road map, to guide us through the decision-making process and to handle each situation as they develop on the racecourse? We have researched and worked on the pre-race stuff, we have great boat handling and a fast boat. Now we have to go into battle.

One way to approach this is to form a set of underlying PRINCIPLES that will guide you through each and every race. THE DEFINITION of PRINCIPLE: a fundamental truth, law or behavior, a rule code of behavior, moral or ethical standards, an underlying or established rule or policy. As in LIFE itself, a set of PRINCIPLES that you fully believe in will help you get through any situation. Without such PRINCIPLES, you have to think out every situation. This takes time and adds stress. By having a set of PRINCIPLES (morals), you have a guideline.

All top sailors have their set of principles, whether they know it or not. In critical situations, they don’t panic because they have this decision-making process, developed over the years.

Let’s start by listing some principles. These are the ones that I have made, not in any particular order, just randomly written down. You don’t have to have the same ones, you may not even agree with mine. This is the beauty of sailboat racing. It is an art form and each individual can approach the sport in his or her own way. These principles will work for most one-design

PRINCIPLES

Sail on the tack or gybe that points closer to the next mark. This is sailing the shortest course. If you get a header but are still on the tack closest to the mark, you probably will wait for a bigger header before considering a tack.

Go fast, don’t let outside distractions interfere with your boat speed. In shifty conditions, it’s easy to have your head out of the boat and go slow. Shift gears as conditions change; constant adjustment for the condition is required.

Sail fair, don’t break the rules. Like the Master Paul Elvstrom says, “If in winning you haven’t gained the respect of your competitors, you haven’t won at all.”

Sail in clean air. If you have to sail in bad air for tactical reasons, learn how to do it with least impact. Twist is fast in disturbed air.

Stay out of trouble with competitors. Focus on getting around the course the fastest; don’t focus on a single competitor or get tangled up in a protest.

Sail toward and in the most wind pressure. This is probably the biggest in my book.

Sailing in more pressure means you point higher upwind and lower downwind and go faster. Before the start (and during the race), look upwind and see where there is the most wind. Bands of wind run between packs of boats, so avoid the pack.

Keep maneuvers to a minimum. Make sure that each tack pays for itself. Know your boat and what each maneuvers costs in boatlenghts. In the best of conditions, a tack will cost one boat length; in light air probably more.

Relax, and keep it fun. Before the start, do some warm-up maneuvers and add some humor. Keeping busy doing your pre-race homework will also relax you. Work out what you need to do before the race to be in tune with your boat and mind.

Form a game plan, where you want to be after the start and first leg. Which is the favorable side, if there is one? Couple this with looking upwind and seeing the most wind pressure. The game plan includes the tactical strategy and the strategy regarding your competition. What is your goal for the race-is it the first race of a series or a do-or-die race? All factors of wind and current go into the game plan.

Be flexible. Even though you have a game plan, be ready to change if the conditions change or situations don’t turn out as you expected.

Think ahead; be observant of what the fleet is going to do on the next wind shift. Where do you want to be relative to them? Where is your main competition? Keep your eyes open for opportunities and see the big picture.

Don’t panic, and be patient, wait for opportunities to develop. They normally always do. Others will make mistakes so make sure you don’t.

If sailing in heavy current, a general rule is to be up current of the rhumbline.

Cross the pack when you can. Take the advantage when you get it, don’t be greedy.

Conversely, don’t cross behind the pack unless there is a persistent shift coming.
Be prepared; have weather, current, sailing instructions, water, etc. Make a note of everything you’ll need.

Don’t think too much and rely on your experience. You know what you can do, so do it. Master your inner mind; let your conscious mind work for you and occupy the nagging, destructive side of your brain.

Get a clean start. You don’t have to try to win the favored end, but allow yourself the start so you can execute your game plan. You may need to be able to tack soon after the start.

Don’t gamble or get greedy. It’s easy to say “We’re behind, let’s bang a corner.” This rarely pays. What does work is sticking to your PRINCIPLES.

Avoid the laylines too early in the leg.

Remember your philosophy and your commitment. “Never give in, never, never, never,” as spoken by Winston Churchill.
We can write in great depth about each of these PRINCIPLES. Books/chapters have been written about each of them. Here we are just concerned about putting them in a form that will help our decision-making process on the racecourse.

We could also keep adding to these PRINCIPLES, but we don’t want too many-the object of the exercise can get lost in the clutter. Make sure that each principle is well founded and has usefulness in most situations encountered on the racecourse. Sure we could add a PRINCIPLE such as don’t sail with people you don’t like, but that is a PRINCIPLE for the shore. It doesn’t affect your decision-making process on the water.

Now we are going to divide the above list into tactical PRINCIPLES and philosophical PRINCIPLES. You need both. For example, “Cross when you can” is balanced with “be patient” and “don’t gamble or get greedy.”

Here is the same list of PRINCIPLES shortened and divided into Tactical and Philosophical.

TACTICALSail on the tack or gybe that points closer to the next mark.

Sail in clean air.
Sail toward, and in, the most wind pressure.
Keep maneuvers to a minimum.
Form a game plan-where you want to be after the start and first leg. What is your goal?
Be flexible. Even though you have a game plan, be ready to change.
A general rule is to be up current of the rhumbline.
Cross the pack when you can. Take the advantage when you get it.
Get a clean start; allow yourself the start so you can execute your game plan.
Avoid the laylines too early in the leg.
PHILOSPHICAL/ATTITUDE
Go fast, don’t let outside distractions interfere with your boat speed.
Sail fair, don’t break the rules. Like Elvstrom says.
Stay out of trouble with competitors. Focus on getting around the course the fastest.
Relax, and keep it fun.
Think ahead; be observant of what the fleet is going to do on the next wind shift.
Don’t panic, be patient, wait for opportunities to develop.
Be prepared; have weather, current, sailing instructions.
Don’t think too much, rely on your experience.
Don’t gamble or get greedy.
Remember your philosophy. When things go wrong, dig deep
These PRINCIPLES will guide you in each race and take the pressure off, and structure your decision-making process. To make a tactical decision, just apply your principles and the decision will be made.

Now we have established the “Principles.” Let’s see how we can use them on the racecourse. So let’s look at some situations often encountered. This is where the fun starts, and it’s a great analysis tool. Recall a situation in a recent race, describe what happened in the situation and then write down which of your PRINCIPLES apply. It should be easy to come up with the correct decision, just as in the following examples.

Example 1 – Weather leg

In a simple situation, you get headed while on starboard tack and now the other tack is the one pointing closer to the mark. PRINCIPLE: “sail on the tack or gybe that points closer to the next mark” makes the decision easy-TACK.

Example 2 – The start

It’s a crowded line and a big one-design fleet, so use PRINCIPLES “get a clean start” and “form a game plan.” The game plan could be to tack soon after the start, so we find a hole close to the weather end, but out of trouble.

Example 3 – Leeward mark rounding

There is a pack of five boats ahead of you, approaching the leeward mark. They are all overlapped and going slowly. You will be overlapped with them and with no rights at the rate you are going. The PRINCIPLE “think ahead” tells you to slow down or carve some space and wait for the pack to round the mark. Only one boat will be next to the mark, the rest will be outside of it. So by actually slowing down, you may overtake four boats.

These are typical straightforward situations found every race, and the application of your PRINCIPLES makes the decision easy. The decisions become complicated if two or more principles conflict in a certain situation. So here let’s look at some tougher situations and cite the PRINCIPLES that apply.

Example 4 – Weather mark approach (first beat)

You are on port tack, close to the port layline, approaching the weather mark. You are on the lifted tack but in bad air, and there are boats directly on your wind. Do you tack, reach off, or do you stay and eat it?

Perhaps this situation came about because you forgot one of your other PRINCIPLES such as “think ahead.” Or perhaps you knew this would happen, but you did go to the left into more pressure that was favored, and you are up among the leaders. Bad air is OK as you went the right way, and you still have an opportunity to overtake the leaders. You are using your PRINCIPLE “be patient.”

Anyway, back to the decision-making process. Tack, foot or stay? Let’s analyze the situation.

Tacking may cost you at least two to three lengths, as you will have to tack twice. Each tack costs one to one-and-a-half lengths, depending on the conditions. Remember the PRINCIPLE “keep maneuvers down.” Is there more pressure to the right or to the left (PRINCIPLE “sail in the most pressure”)? Is there traffic, which would stop you from footing off?

You decide to stay because:

If you foot off, there are more boats that will give you bad air.

Tacking will cost three lengths and will put you on the port tack layline, and the mark rounding will be risky.

There may be more pressure on the layline but not worth the tacks, or risk.

Staying will cost maybe two lengths but will put you in contention so you are applying PRINCIPLE “be patient.” This is the overriding PRINCIPLE, and it’s a philosophical one.

Remember that if you decide to stay in bad air, twist your sails. It’s a fact that more twist in bad air is less harmful than tight leaches. Just imagine the bad air that is coming off the sails in front of you; it will be much more twisted at masthead level than on the water, being deflected by the boat’s sails. It is also lighter air, and in lighter air you sail more twisted. Ease your sheets and raise the traveler.

Example 5 – Game plan last race

You are winning a regatta, and it’s the last race. You are too conservative at the start, get pinned out and are forced to tack the wrong way. Then a huge wind shift comes through, you are on the wrong side, your main competition is in the lead and you are way back. The wind shifts once more briefly allowing you to get back most of the distance lost. You panic and get greedy and wait for more. Unfortunately, the wind goes back again, and you lost an opportunity. What did we do wrong?

This is what went wrong:

The GAME PLAN was forgotten or not even discussed.

Being too conservative stopped you from getting a clean start, and you became a target.

Tacking away from your competition put you on the wrong side of the shift.

You panicked and got greedy by not taking the shift when you could.

You let the main competition cross you in wildly shifting conditions.

You got wrapped up in the confusion and started going slow.

This is what we should have done, followed our PRINCIPLES:

Form a game plan, decide who the main completion is and cover him.

Don’t panic-remember your game plan when things go wrong.

Get a clean start, be alert.

Sail on lifted tack.

Cross them when you can or take the shift when you can.

Keep going fast through the chaos.

Example 6 – Having fun?

Recently, my passion for winning races led to my getting frustrated over little mistakes. Each mistake led to my taking it out on the crew. I would blow the start and then criticize them for not hiking hard enough. Now the error was mine, and I would not take the blame. I was breaking one of the most fundamental PRINCIPLES “Relax and have fun.” My crew could see the situation clearly. Each time I made a mistake, they would say, “Sorry, it’s our fault we weren’t hiking enough.” This finally stopped me from being too serious and made me laugh.

Example 7 – Downwind going slow

You are being caught on a run. You keep looking behind, and the boat astern is catching up. Each time you look, it seems that she is catching up faster. What should you do? Let’s see which PRINCIPLES apply.

Sail in the most wind pressure.

Sail in clean air.

Sail on the headed gybe.

Go fast, don’t let outside distraction slow you down.

It could be that you are not following one of these PRINCIPLES; maybe the fact that you are looking around too much is making you go slow. So concentrate, sail fast, sail in the most pressure, and get on the headed gybe.

After you reviewed all the PRINCIPLES and you are still being caught or it’s too late, your next step is to use the PRINCIPLE “think ahead.” Make sure that the boat catching you will have to pass on the outside at the leeward mark, i.e. keep the inside berth at the leeward mark. You will still be ahead and in control.

Lesson/Conclusion

Okay, so now you have a set of PRINCIPLES, and you can see how they help you interpret situations and make the correct decision. They are your personal PRINCIPLES, and should be read and modified when the occasion warrants. They will not only make the decision-making process easier and stress free, but the process will also be a lot quicker.

By working on these examples, you can start to form a playbook. Next time the situation develops, you already have an understanding of the decision that you might make.

After a situation where the outcome wasn’t very satisfactory, identify which PRINCIPLES you broke. This is part of the learning process. It is also a valuable training tool in a classroom situation making up probable situations and discussing the various merits of each PRINCIPLE.

Remember that after the decision is made, stick to it, and if it was the wrong one, don’t fret, LEARN. Next time you will know better. Because of all the variables, it’s impossible to sail the perfect race. You will make mistakes, probably more than one or two. The goal is to make as few as possible and hopefully to make less than your competitors.

Mike Hobson has been sailing dinghies and keelboats for thirty years, and boasts first place finishes to his credit at Key West, Annapolis Race Week and Cowes Week. In the early 1990s at the outset of professional Ultimate yacht racing, he skippered the Ultimate 30 “Flyer” against the likes of Ken Read, Peter Gilmore and John Kolius.

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Glossary of Sailing terms

Here are some terms used in sailing with explanations as to what they mean. If you are new to sailing dont stress,you will pick them up as you go along

A
ABACK The sail pressed backwards by the wind
ABOUT To go about, to tack
AFT Towards the back of the boat
AMIDSHIPS In the middle of the boat
ASTERN Behind the boat
B
BACKING The wind changing direction in an anti clockwise direction
BAIL To remove water from the boat by hand
BEAUFORT SCALE Scale of wind strength used internationally
BEAM Breadth of boat at widest point
BEAT To sail to windward close hauled
BEFORE THE WIND Running with the wind astern
BEAR AWAY Change direction away from the wind
BERMUDA RIG Triangular fore and aft sail set on a tall mast
BOOM A spar which is used to extend the foot of the sail
BROACH To come around broadside onto the wind and at the same time heeling over at an extreme angle
C
CAPSIZE To turn a boat over so that she will not right by herself
CAST OFF To let go any lines tying the boat to another object
CATSPAW A very light puff of wind that just disturbs the surface of the water
CAMCLEAT A fitting comprised of two sprung cams through which ropes can run in one direction.
CLEW The lower aft corner of a fore and aft sail
CLEW OUTHAUL Line or tackle for tensioning the foot of a sail
CLOSE HAULED Sailing as close as possible to the wind
CLOSE REACH Slightly freer than close hauled
D
DINGHY Small open boat for either sailing or rowing
DIRTY WIND Turbulent wind left by a sailboat
DOWNWIND To leeward; running before the wind
DRAFT Depth of boat from bottom of keel to the waterline
F
FAIRLEAD Any boat fitting which guides a rope in the direction required
FALL OFF When the head or bow of a boat moves away from the wind
FEND OFF To push another boat away or hold boat off the dock
FOOT The bottom edge of a sail from tack to clew
FORWARD Near or towards the bow
FORESTAY A stay leading from the masthead to the bow to stop the mast falling backwards
FREEBOARD The distance between the waterline and the deck
FULL Said of a sail with plenty of draft (fullness)
FURL To roll up
G
GENOA A very large jib that considerably overlaps the mainsail
GHOSTING To move when there is no recognisable wind
GO ABOUT To change from one tack to another
GOOSENECK A universal joint fitting on the mast to which the boom is attached
GUDGEON A fitting into which the pin of a pintle is inserted. It enables the rudder to pivot
GYBE To change from one tack to the other with the wind from aft
Aquarius Sailing Club Basic Dinghy Sailing
35
H
HALYARDS Lines used for hoisting sails
HEADING Direction in which the boat is pointing
HEAVE TO To stop the boat with the jib backed and the tiller held to leeward
HEEL Very bottom of the mast; also said of a boat inclined to either port or starboard by the action of
the wind
HELM General description of the means of steering
HIKE OUT To sit on the side deck and lean outboard to add stability to the boat
HEAD UP Turn towards the wind
HULL SPEED The maximum speed a hull, not capable of planing, can achieve
I
INBOARD In the boat, also nearer the middle of the vessel
IN IRONS The boat lays head to wind with the sails flapping
J
JIB Sail set forward of the mast
JIB SHEET Line that controls the set of the headsail/jib
K
KICKING STRAP Pulley system between boom and foot of mast designed to tension the leech of the sail
L
LEACH After edge of a fore and aft sail
LEE HELM When the natural tendency of a boat is to turn away from the wind unless rudder correction is
applied
LEEWARD Direction away from the wind; downwind
LIFT A sail lifts when the wind strikes the leeward side so that it is no longer full
LOA Length overall, the extreme measurement of a boat including all extensions
LUFF To change the boats direction towards the wind
M
MAINSAIL Sail set on the mast
MAINSHEET Sheet used to control the mainsail
MAST A spar, placed vertically on a vessel for spreading sails
MONOHULL Vessel with one hull
P
PAINTER A rope attached to the bow of a small boat by which it may be made fast
PAY OFF When the boat’s head turns away from the wind
PINCH To sail too close to the wind
PINTLE Metal pin on a boat’s sternpost or rudder stock on which the rudder hangs by its gudgeons
PLANE When a sailboat rises up on its own bow wave and reaches speeds far in excess of those normally
associated with its waterline length.
POINT The ability of a sailboat to sail close to the wind well or badly
PORT Left hand side of the boat facing forward
PORT TACK When the wind comes from the port side and the boom is on the starboard side.
R
REACH Any point of sailing between close-hauled and running
REEF To reduce the working area of a sail
RIG General term for spars, sails and rigging
ROUND UP Come head to wind
RUDDER Moveable underwater part of a boat used for steering
RUNNING RIGGING The generic term for sheets and halyards. The ropes which hoist and sheet sails
Aquarius Sailing Club Basic Dinghy Sailing
36
S
SELF BAILERS Devices in the bottom of a dinghy’s hull or in the transom; if they are opened, when the dinghy is
sailing fast, any water in the bottom of the boat will be sucked out.
SET To hoist and trim sails
SHACKLE U-shaped link with a retained pin used for connecting links and eyes
SPILL THE WIND Let the sails out so as to decrease the pressure on the sails
STANDING RIGGING Permanent wire supports for the mast
STARBOARD The right hand side of the boat looking forward
STARBOARD TACK When the wind comes from the starboard side and the boom is to port
STAYS Rigging that supports the mast fore and aft
SPINNAKER A lightweight three-cornered sail set from a spinnaker pole and the head of the mast controlled
by a sheet and a guy.
T
TILLER/TILLER EXTENSION An attachment to the rudder via the rudder stock by which the rudder is controlled
THWART A seat running across a dinghy
TRAVELLER Device for altering the position of the mainsheet lead to suit varying weather conditions
TRIM Fore and aft adjustment of weigh in the boat
U
UPWIND In the direction of the wind; to windward
V
VANG (SEE KICKING STRAP) Tackle to prevent boom rising; kicking strap
W
WAY Movement of a boat through the water
WEATHER HELM When a sailboat has a natural tendency to come up into wind unless rudder correction is applied
(opposite to lee helm)
WINDWARD Towards the wind
WIND SHADOW The area affected by the turbulent air from a sailboat’s sails

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Some knots-(Dinghy racing UK)

Here is a list of useful knots with pictures which are used in sailing together with some tips about their usage on your dinghy.

Most ropes used these days in dinghy sailing are made from synthetic materials. Ropes can be made of polypropylene, polyester, nylon and new materials such as high modulus polyethylene, Liquid crystal polymer (LCP) and PBO. Most ropes are braided and some have a parallel core for additional reinforcement. Manufacturers usually provide detailed information about their products as the diameter, materials, braiding formation and other factors can have an impact on the strength of ropes.

Figure of eight Loop – This is a simple way of getting a loop in a piece of rope, although it is not as easy to undo as a bowline it is a very secure knot. figure 8 loop

Chain Sennet – The sennit is a series of loops joined to form a plait, this is usefull for forming handles on ends of rope. This is often used on the new kicker and outhaul systems for a Laser dinghy for example. It can be made into a loop by tying a bowline with the loose end and the part before the sennit.chain sennit

Stopper Knot – This knot is used a substantial way of finishing of a rope end and stopping it from passing through a cleat for examplestopper

Sheet Bend – This is one of the most common knots for joining 2 ropes and is simple to tie. A double sheet bend is better when joining 2 ropes of unequal diameter.sheet bend

Reef knot – So called because this knot was originally used to reef the sails on yachts, this is useful for joining two pieces of rope or as a binding knot.

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Volvo race – we have come a long way

Check out this Whitbread documentary,filmed in the 70’s a precusor to the modern Volvo races, note all the crew drinking beer compliments of the sponsor.This would be a no no today : Clickety Click Whitbread documentary

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Jack Köper – the dabbie designer

Few men start a new career at the age of 55. Even fewer are lucky enough to do for a living what was formerly a hobby. In 1966, Jack Köper, South African yachtsman, sailing dinghy designer and backyard boat builder did both – he left the printing trade in which he had worked all his life, and became a professional sailmaker. In his sail-loft at Paarden Eiland he had a stuff of six to cope with orders from as far as Canada and United States. They range from sails for the little “Dabchick” which Köper designed himself, to sails measuring hunderts of square feet for ocean going keel yachts.
Like many of his other activities, Köper’s sailmaking self-taught – “through books and trial and error” – though before setting up as a professional, he went on a brief visit to England, Holland, Switzerland and Italy to study the latest methods. “A lot has been written about the science of sail shapes and wind forces and so on – but sailmaking is still a creative art.”
Jack Köper’s first sailing experience occured when he was nine, on a river near his birthplace, Haarlem, in Holland. “My father took me out in his 12-ft dinghy, and I was dead scared. Water was coming over the bow and I thought we were going to capsize. I kept out of sailing boats for years afterwards.” About ten years later, however, he joined a rowing club, but was forced to give up this form of exercise because of health reasons. “So at the age of 22 I started sailing agin. I bought myself a 12 square metre Sharpie and won the first race I ever sailed in, which was very encouraging. I didn’t know the first thing about the rules.” In 1936 Jack Köper came to South Africa, married a Dutch girl, and then returned to Europe at the outbrake of war and served with the Netherlands Government in London. In 1947 the Sprog sailing dinghy made its appearance on South African vlies, and Jack was asked by a fiend to skipper a Sprog at Zeekoevlei. “We sailed quite successfully,” he recalled modestly. What, in fact, happened was that he won the national yachting regatta at Knysna in 1950.

Shortly afterwards Köper, with an instinctive feeling for the best in sailing, was struck by a new design published in a Dutch yachting magazine to which he subscribed. With others he sensed that the 20 ft. Flying Dutchman – now regarded as the aristocrat of single-hulled sailing dinghies throughout the world – could become an international class. With the aid of another well-known yachting personality, Dr. Ken Warr, he arranged for the first batch of FD shells to be sent to South Africa, an order for five shells and one completed hull as a pattern for finishing the shells. An unconfirmed legend is that the completed hull in this batch was Van Essen’s prototype Flying Dutchman, sent out to meet the South African order because it was the biggest received and the prototype was the only complete hull in existence. This internationally-historic hull is reputed to be still on the hard at Hermanus Yacht Club.

His Family, two sons and two daughters showed great interest in their father’s sail hobby. When Gerhard, the second oldest, was 14 he wanted his own boat. “So I decided to design one myself. It had to be safe, easy for a young boy to handle, simple and cheap to build, yet fast enough to plane and provide real excitement. The result was the Dabchick, which I designed in six months. Underwater, the hull was V-type, yet it was totally enclosed and no water could get in in the event of a capsize.” ”
The size of the boat was entirely dependent on the material I had to hand. The largest plywood sheets are made 8 ft by 4 ft So three sheets would cover a boat 12 ft by 4 ft which are the overall dimensions of the Dabchick.” Ten years later, there were 2,100 Dabchicks, not only in South Africa but also in England, United States, Canada, Australia, New Zeeland and several African countries including Kenya and Nigeria.

The Tempo followed in 1963. Köper said: I thought there was room for a third boat between the Sprog and the Flying Dutchman. The basic design would be that of a Dabchick, but it would be far more sophisticated. It was to be a boat with sufficient comfort for adults, but built for speed. To capture public imagination, it also had to look fast in appearance and be utterly different from any other class. My idea was to use four sheets of 8 ft by 4 ft plywood, limiting it to a maximum length of just under 16 ft. It would have a baem of 5 ft for stability and this involved carefully cutting of the plywood. The boat would be norrower than 4 ft fore and aft and the off-cuts would be used for the wider mid-section.” The Tempo took two years of design. After he had built it köper launched it secretly at Hermanus in 1963 and sailed it there for six months before officially letting anyone konw about the boat. “I then sailed it single-handed in an all-class race and was soon far ahead of everyone else. After these tests I found it necessary to make it a bit stronger. I also added buoyancy tanks to the sides of the cockpit – it already had fore and aft buoyancy. Plans for the Tempo have since been published in yachting magazines here and oversea. In Holland, where there are now about 150 Tempos, they are trying to make it an international class. Tempos are also being sailed in Germany, England, Italy and United States. at present 186 are registered in South Africa.” The Tempo took two years to design. After he had built it Köper launched it secretly at Hermanus in 1963 and sailed it for six months before officially letting anyone know about the boat. “I then sailed it single-handed in an all-class race and was soon far ahead of anyone else. After these tests I found it necessary to make it a bit stronger. I also added buoyancy tanks to the sides of the cockpit – it already had fore and aft buoyancy.” After there had been reports about the Tempo in sail magazines all around the world, it was distributed in South Africa, the Netherlands, Germany, England, Italy, and the United States.

It is not surprising that when, in 1970 Jack Köper designed a third dinghy, the Sonnet. This time the design offered a smaller scow, drier than the Dabchick, with adaptibility to one or two-man sailing but – more imporant and almost revolutionary in South Afrrica – the Sonnet was rigidly “one design”. By an extra long centreboard case it is possible to sail the Sonnet with and without (single handed) fore sail and adjusting the centre of lateral resistance by altering the centreboard to the front or aft to the altered centre of pressure of the sails. The Sonnet is certainly a very successful class in South Africa today.

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Justin Timberlake parody – live video

First dude – “Dude, this is so chill.”
Second dude – “Yeah.”
First dude – “I love sailing.”
Second dude – “Too bad it’s not more popular, you know?”
First dude – “But I’m thinking about bringing sailing back.”
Second dude – “Sick, man.”
First dude – “Yeah.”

You have been warned.

CLICKETY CLICK Bringing Sailing Backvideo is a parody titled “I’m Bringing Sailing Back”, a sort-of music video that uses Justin Timberlake’s song ‘Sexy Back’. The dialogue begins like this….

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Scow sailing from yester year -scuttlebutt

Dabbie big Grand daddy ?

Clickety Click :-Scows

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VIDEO: American Idol goes sailing – Scuttlebutt

See the Clip Clickety Click Idols goes sailing

Sam Woolf’s Top 7 American Idol performance on April 16 of “Sail Away” by David Gray.
Published on April 16, 2014.

“Sail Away” by David Gray
Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hand
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now, now

Crazy skies are wild above me now
Winter howling at my face
And everything i held so dear
Disappeared without a trace

Through all the times i tasted love
Never knew quite what i had
Little darling if you hear me now
Never needed you so bad

Spinning round my head

Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hand
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now, now

I been talking drunken gibberish
Falling in and out of bars
Trying to get some explanation here
For the way some people are
How did it come so far

Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hand
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now, now

Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hand
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now, now

Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hand
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now, now

It break me up if you pull me down, oh..
Sail away with me, what will be will be
I wanna hold you now, now now

If you enjoyed that check out the original by David Gray in a live performanceDavid Gray CLICKETY CLICK David Gray

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